Saturday, December 28, 2019

BACK ACROSS THE INTERNATIONAL DATE LINE


The first few days we were on the island of Rarotonga, it rained all nights and at times throughout the day.  By Monday of this week however the weather had cleared up, with pleasant tropical breezes and shirt sleeve weather for most of the week.  The roosters didn’t seem to crow as much in the dark since it stopped raining overnight.
Monday morning Alisa and I drove to town (Avarua) to do the work portion of our trip.  I met with 3 different attorneys, Heinz Matyzik, Wilkie Rasmussen and Tim Arnold, local attorneys that our Church legal office has used in the past.  I wanted to get to know them a bit so that as projects come up in the Cook Islands, I’ll know who we are doing business with and which to use depending on the type of matter involved.  I learned that attorneys in the islands wear Hawaiian shirts to work also!  Then we stopped by a little fish stand and had one of the best fish sandwiches I’ve ever had.  We dropped by to see a local member who is involved with public affairs work so Alisa could get to know him.   Back at our holiday home, we napped in the afternoon, and I went out to rent an electric bicycle for one day and an island motorcycle for 2 days.  For the 3 days total, I spent NZD$65 which is the equivalent of about USD$45, quite the deal.  I took the ebike back to the house with me.  In the evening we all went out to dinner at Antipodes, an upscale restaurant on a cliff top overlooking the Pacific Ocean.  My meal consisted of pork loin, a cauliflower mash and candied figs.  This was our evening for seeing the sun go down on the west side of the island, and we weren’t disappointed. 
Tuesday I was up early while the others slept, and headed out on my ebike.  I followed one path up the side of the mountain over some streams filled with rain runoff, then took the back interior road, where I got to see cows, a pig, pineapple fields, mango fields, a stone cutter’s shop and just delightful scenery.  I even got caught in a refreshing mist rain.  With the ebike I got good exercise peddling, but when I got tired I just pulled the lever and the battery power took over, with speeds between 30 and 40 mph.  This was probably my favorite activity of the vacation.  After breakfast, the four of us (Keith, Janet, Alisa and I), headed to the Koka Lagoon Cruise just down the street from our holiday house.  This cruise consisted of a barge with a glass bottom, and a thatched roof.  The crew sang to us, playing ukuleles and drums as we cruised.  First stop was a marine nature reserve, where we snorkeled in the crystal-clear water of the lagoon.  The current was fairly strong but we survived it.  Then we headed over to a motu (islet) out in the bay, where we had a bbq lunch served us, coconut tree climbing instruction, singing, and exploring the motu.  The lagoon water was as clear as I’ve ever seen.  After a 3.5 hour trip, we came back to shore.  From there we visited an outdoor sports bar/restaurant setup, with outdoor tv’s tuned in to ESPN, to watch the Hawaii Bowl football game between BYU and Hawaii.  We had pizza and burgers while we watched the game.  That was our Christmas eve activity.  Afterwards, Alisa and I dropped by the Muri Night Market to check things out.
Wednesday I was up early again, Christmas day. By then I had traded my ebike in for the island motorcycle for the last 2 days.  So I hopped on my motorcycle and drove around the south end of the island up a road to view a waterfall.  The island is working on a new drinking water system, and it looked to me like they had cemented up the waterfall and installed a spillway for their drinking water supply.  Not impressed by this I decided to hike in a little ways, once I found the poorly marked hiking trail.  I hiked in a ways, as the trail got more difficult to follow, through rivers and across rocks.  After a while I decided I had hiked in far enough that I didn’t want to hike back, so I set out to accomplish the cross island “walk”.  I kept thinking the trail would get better, but it didn’t.  I took a couple of wrong turns, but when the jungle brought me to a stop, I’d turn back and find the trail again.  Every once in while there would be a piece of yellow “caution” tape tied to a plant that sort of marked the way to go.  The trail started to get steeper and rougher, but by now there was no way I was going back the way I’d come. The jungle canopy looked like it was getting thinner with more sky visible, so I thought I was getting close to the top of the mountains.  But instead the trail got steeper and steeper such that I was having to cling on branches and roots to pull myself up.  Just when I was getting really worried, I heard voices ahead, and a few minutes later I emerged into a clearing to find a group of Indonesian day workers from Auckland NZ on vacation, they’d decided to hike from the north end of the island to view the Needle rock formation.  I had been hiking for 3 hours straight and was completely drenched in sweat, and had brought no food or water along, although I did drink from the streams to quench my thirst.  This group offered me a fruit drink and a boiled egg which kindness I gladly accepted.  I have determined that I have a strong heart, because it was really racing as I climbed, but didn’t miss a tick.  I was quite stiff by this time from the strenuous hiking and climbing, but the rest in the clearing did me some good.  I went with the group the final 200 meters to the base of the Needle rock formation, likely the highest point on the island.  I then headed along the north trail, and found out that going this way only took me about 40 minutes to hike out, and thus the reason that most people only hike the north trail.  But I can now say that I’m one of the few who have hiked the entire cross island walk.  At the trail head, I thumbed a ride with a Phillipino lady driving an island motorcycle, down to the back road, and I hiked from there into the town of Avaroa, where I called Alisa to come pick me up at the farmers market area.  I could tell that I was dehydrated.  After taking a shower and a little recuperation, the 4 of us headed over to the Rarotongan hotel for a Christmas buffet. Afterwards, due I believe to my dehydration, I started to get cramps/Charlie horses on both legs, calves and thighs.  That was a lot of fun!
Thursday was our last day on the island. The owner of the Grand View allowed us to stay at the house the entire day before we headed out to our night time flight, and that was great. I got up early to take pictures from our deck of the spectacular sunrise, which glistened off the lagoon waters and motus.  I also took a final motorcycle ride along the back roads. Both of my upper legs were sore as could be, I had obviously strained my muscles on the hike and I could only walk painfully and slowly. I took it easy that day. I returned the motorcycle, we had fish sandwiches in town at the Sea Salt, and we drove around the island some more.  We said goodbye to our maid, Michelle from the Philippines who works 4 jobs to support her family.  We gave her tips and a Book of Mormon.  We packed up and headed to the airport for our 9:30 p.m. flight back to NZ.  Even though it was only a 4 hour flight back, we went directly from Thursday evening to arriving Saturday morning at 1:30 a.m. in Auckland due to crossing back over the international date line. Our shuttle driver was waiting for us at the airport, and drove us back to our apartment where we were all soon asleep.  Saturday Mom drove Keith and Janet to Hamilton to see the temple and Church museum there, while I worked at doing a summary and evaluation of my visit with the 3 attorneys in Rarotonga.  Today the 4 of us attended our last Sunday Church services for 2019!

Scenic views



Dinner at Antipodes



Early morning ebike ride


Pig friend viewed on bike ride


Pineapple field viewed from bike ride


Koka Lagoon cruise ship


Snorkeling by the cruise ship


Snorkeling in crystal clear water


Koka Lagoon band on the cruise ship


Lunch time feast on the motu (islet)


Crystal clear water of the lagoon, with our cruise ship in background


Coconut tree climbing man


Climbing the coconut tree


The Koka Lagoon band on the beach


The maid at the Grand View, Michelle, with her Book of Mormon


The Cross Island "Walk"


The Hike


The Needle


Hiking to the Needle with my Indonesian friends


At the base of the Needle with some of my Indonesian friends


The final morning's grand view from Grand View Lodge


Typical Rarotonga transportation


MERRY KIRITIMITI FROM RAROTONGA IN THE COOK ISLANDS

December 22, 2019

The Church employees were supposed to take the week off to begin the holidays. However, instead, it seemed like everyone was trying to work the whole week and dump as much stuff on me to review for next year, on my desk and off theirs.  But I went in early each day and stayed late, and by Dec. 20 Friday noon I had reviewed and returned everything.  I skipped out of the office, went home, and Mom, Gpa Keith and Gma Janet (who had just returned from a cruise and train ride) and I loaded our luggage into our waiting shuttle and went to the airport to catch our 4 pm flight to Rarotonga. (This is to be a working vacation).  Actually the plane was an hour late departing.  Because our 4 hour flight crossed the international dateline, we actually arrived in Avarua, the capital city of the island of Rarotonga and of the country of Cook Islands, the day before, on Thursday Dec.19, at 9 p.m. Carl Hunter, our host at his home Grand View Lodge was there at the tiny airport waiting to pick us up.  It was dark by this time, but we got to see the large colored bulbs/Christmas lights the locals had strung across their  main street, the one road that circles the entire island, about 50 kilometers long. 

Friday morning I awoke early. Not only was our “home” large and spacious, but it was the last house up the side of the mountain with a beautiful view of the lagoon and ocean!  I guess that’s why Carl named his home the “Grand View”. I took an early morning walk down to the beach, and admired the green lagoon water. After a breakfast of oatmeal, we picked up our rental car and drove the loop around the island. It felt like we were in a 3rd world Hawaii.  All the vegetation and mountains looked the same, but it was like going back 70 years in time, small humble homes and lots of little shops and bakeries lining the road. There are only about 17,000 people in the entire country, with about 10,000 living on the island of Rarotonga.  We drove by their Parliament building, it was about the size of Visalia’s city hall with about the same amount of gravamen.  In town we stopped by 2 grocery stores to buy our food supplies for the week.  Supplies in the grocery stores were low because of the storms and rough seas, and thus the supply ship hadn’t been able to get into the harbor this week.  The first store was completely out of eggs and at the 2nd grocery store we bought 2 of the last 3 dozen eggs they had!  Then we drove around town trying to find a little cafe or restaurant for lunch.  Finally we stumbled upon Trader Jack’s, which was right on the beach/harbor area.  It turned out to be quite good, I had a huge fish sandwich which they said was fresh Mahi Mahi caught that morning, and chips.  We drove back to Grand View and unpacked our supplies. We mainly visited and read for the late afternoon and evening, and barbecued hamburgers for dinner.

Saturday morning we had a full breakfast of eggs, bacon, fresh papaya, toast and juice. Then we drove into town to attend the Saturday farmers market.  That was a lot of fun.  It was packed with booths full of local produce, flowers, food vendors, artists, and more.  As we shopped we were stopped by a number of local Church  members who saw our name tags and wanted to visit, some of whom actually gave us free fruit or discounts.  We purchased fresh papayas, pineapple, passion fruit, tomatoes, star fruit, cucumbers, a cd of Cook Island music, and a couple of pieces of artwork from a local artist.  We spent a few hours just walking the outdoor market.  We relaxed in the afternoon then in the evening went out to Te Vara Nui Village for a buffet “luau” and a Polynesian dance show.  They had their own little lake and put on quite the show,  it reminded me of a smaller version of the Polynesian Cultural Center.  It finished around 10 p.m. and we were quickly home again since our house was just down the road from it. 

I should mention that the weather has been rainy and overcast, with a little sunshine.  It is still shirt sleeve weather. But the locals say as soon as the rains leave it will be hot and humid again.  Also, as in Hawaii, there are wild chickens everywhere here in the country, and the roosters like to wake us up. And many plumeria trees, although the locals wear a different white flower (with 6 or 7 pedals) behind an ear, or a full crown of flowers (which I bought one for Mom at the farmers market).

Today was Sunday.  We attended the little branch of the Church just down the road from our house. The members were very welcoming, and were enthusiastic, beautiful singers of the Christmas hymns.  We had a pleasant Sacrament meeting with a Christmas theme, then adjourned to the small cultural hall for food.  The locals had brought an assortment of desserts, rice, noodles and shell fish.  I particularly enjoyed the latter.  We visited for about an hour with the members, then returned to our house with the Atteburys and the K’s, both senior couples serving missions here.  We visited with them some for a while to hear of their mission experiences and to learn more about this funny little country in the middle of the ocean.  Also, today was our 38th wedding anniversary. Since it is Sunday, we’ll celebrate tomorrow night by going out to dinner at supposedly the best restaurant on the island by the ocean with a view of the sunset.

Finally I mention the WiFi situation here.  There is only one provider here, Blue Sky, which thus has a monopoly.  It is not very good service and is quite expensive.  Of course, even though our house was advertised with WiFi, there was none here.  I ended up paying $49 for a SIM card with 300 texts, 30 minutes calling time and 3 gigs of data. I’ve been trying to dole it out, with Mom and Gpa Keith constantly borrowing my phone to check their messages!


Arrival at Rarotonga Cook Islands International Airport


Lunch at Trader Jack's


Grand View lodge, our home away from home


Grand View Lodge from a motu (islet), upper right house


Inside the Grand View Lodge


Saturday Farmer's Market in Avarua


Farmers Market melon stand


Tropical Santa


Pre-show at Te Vara Nui


Te Vara Nui Polynesian show


Elder Gubler with 80+ owner of Te Vara Nui


Local Church branch for Sunday services


Saturday, December 14, 2019

VOLCANIC ACTION


This will be an abbreviated update. On Monday the volcano on White Island blew its stack, while there were about 50 tourists on it.  Some survived, but a number were severely injured or burned or killed.  Mom, Ed and I drove through Tauranga on our way to Rotorua a little over a month ago when Ed was visiting.  White Island is one of the locations I had thought to visit, but the ferry ride from Tauranga over and back would have taken too long, so we skipped it.  I suspect that the island will be off limits for many years after this catastrophe!
The Riggs dropped by Wednesday evening for an excellent lasagna dinner Mom made.  The Riggs went on a cruise of the south island post mission and had just arrived back for a day before heading home to Tennessee. 
I survived through the Friday workday.  It has been 2 weeks since I took over Elder Riggs’ real estate and construction work in addition to my work, in essence now doing 2 attorney’s work.  I am almost caught up by coming in at 7 a.m. and staying until 6 p.m., and I am learning the specifics of how to do the real estate and construction stuff.  I noticed that the massive load of emails coming in that I have had to respond to dwindled to a trickle by Friday. New Zealanders take off work roughly mid-December to mid-January, which means my work load should lighten up somewhat for a while while I take care of the backlog. 
Saturday morning Mom and I just went down to the local Takapuna beach where I jogged then we played in the water a little.  Afterwards we helped clean out an apartment that the missionaries will stop using as excess.  I napped and read until we had the new missionary couple the Romneys and the Whatcotts over for a taco dinner.

By the area office's Christmas tree


View of the city from the 10th story missionary apartment we cleaned out


Saturday, December 7, 2019

SUMMER HAS ARRIVED, ALONG WITH THE CHRISTMAS SEASON


This was my first week being over real estate and construction issues, now that Elder Riggs has finished his legal mission.  I’m now officially doing the work of 2 attorneys since his replacement doesn’t arrive until the end of January.  I did a complicated acquisition, disposition and lease of parcels of real property all in the same week.  While normally these aren’t that complicated, the Church’s safeguards and protocols are complex, and I’m still learning those.  So I went to the office most mornings this week by 7 a.m. and stayed late, and more or less kept up with the work flow.  If I can last one more week, then Christmas vacations should kick in for the Church employees and I should be alright for a few weeks as the work flow decreases. 
Last Sunday evening Alisa and I drove to the airport and picked up Keith and Janet Brimhall.  They are here for the month.  Alisa showed them around town on Monday.  Tuesday morning we had a Christmas devotional at the area offices which they attended with us, then we put them in a taxi to take them to the docks so they could catch their cruise ship.  They will be gone 2 weeks on a cruise to Melbourne then around the South Island of New Zealand. 
Friday after work Alisa and I attended the YSA barbecue at Bishop Dil’s home. Saturday morning we participated at a YSA service project at Maria Goode’s house, where we weeded her large garden area.  Then Alisa and I went to a lawn bowls club at the invitation of Michael Fox, a non-member with whom we play pickleball.  Alisa was actually quite good at lawn bowling, me, not so much.  We got home around 2 p.m., by then I had had plenty of sun.  So I took a long nap.  In the evening we had a farewell party for the Wrights, our in field representatives/missionary couple.
Summer has arrived, warm and slightly muggy.  We're getting plenty of sunshine now.

Kia ora to Keith and Janet Brimhall


Lawn Bowls



Farewell to Elder and Sister Wright


FINAL REPORT FROM NEW ZEALAND, HEADING HOME

It 's December 6, 2020.   We’re finally on the plane, winging it back to America.   I'm writing this note on the plane.   We are tra...